A patch of this scallion—not actually a young bunching onion but a member of a separate, non-bulbing species—is a long-time garden friend. In mid-winter, scallions are happy to get a jump start indoors; they can be transplanted anytime the ground can be worked; they multiply by division naturally if left unharvested; and they overwinter with no special care, emerging powerfully after the ground thaws, their deep green spears a reassuring sign of spring. Chopped and sprinkled on nearly any prepared dish, they make all flavors pop. In short: starting a scallion bed is a journey worth taking.
